The sweet kernels of corn, of which there are plenty, sit nearly obscured at the bottom of the bowl it may sound counterintuitive, but the contrast works wonderfully. The Ivy’s chowder sits on the opposite side of that spectrum, to its absolute benefit: The savory broth is so comparatively thin, it’s like roof runoff during a storm. The problem with many chowders you’ll run across in this lifetime is that they’re overly thick or gloppy, more suitable to a Dickensian orphanage than a fine-dining experience. That starts with the spicy fresh corn chowder. My advice is to pretend like you’re DJing a wedding and stick to the hits. The menu is so utterly all over the place, all at the same time, you’d think it was a rejected screenplay from the Daniels. There could be a wait, but it’s worth it to be where the action is. Ask for a patio table, and hold your ground among the Burberry, leopard prints and some guy trying to vape inconspicuously from a device the size of a brick. There might be a line to check in, to the annoyance of some more impatient patrons. If you’re there for lunch, and lunch is the time to go, it’ll probably be busy. It makes sense, given the restaurant’s prices. This is the Ivy, after all, and there’s definitely some money in the room, both real and aspirational. There likely will be a stream of big, fancy cars pulling up to the valet, each bigger and fancier than the next, out of which might step a well-dressed family with some extremely bored kids on their phones, or an older couple where the woman is dressed in a red blouse, fuchsia power pants and black heels, or a guy rocking the Adam Sandler look: dressed for a pickup game at the Y but with an unerring confidence that only piles of hidden money can imbue. Although the wine list is limited, Papa Razzi offers some interesting and fairly priced tasting flights of three two-ounce pours of each varietal.On a given afternoon at the Ivy, Richard Irving and Lynn von Kersting’s Robertson Boulevard restaurant, you might see three young women in identical black tops and workout pants taking selfies on the sidewalk, or someone from an old NBC sitcom whose name you can’t quite access before you catch yourself staring. For an entrée, we suggest the lombatina di vitello, a bone-in center-cut 14-ounce veal chop with wild mushrooms, Marsala and fresh vegetables. Start with gamberi allo spiedo-grilled shrimp with braised spinach and lemon vinaigrette-or the panzanella-a variation on the classic salad with mixed greens, capers, tomatoes, torn focaccia and Vermont goat cheese in a red wine vinaigrette. The food is modern Italian, defined as a brighter, lighter take on the traditional, and it succeeds with thin-crust pizzas from a wood-burning oven, pasta dishes with light sauces and hearty entrées. Located in the tony Mall at Short Hills, Papa Razzi provides a respite for the harried shopper as well as an attractive dining destination for couples, friends and families, even when the high-end shops surrounding it are closed for the day.
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